21 things to know before travelling to Georgia

Georgia is rapidly becoming a must see destination for backpackers around the globe.

And there’s good reason why Georgia should be on your travel bucket list – particularly if you love nature, wine and warm cheese filled bread.

Georgia provides the opportunity to hike through bright meadows past snow capped mountains, indulge in sweet red wine teamed with cheese filled khachapuri, explore castle ruins and caves, and soak in relaxing sulphur baths.

Before you head off to Georgia for some hiking, history, wine and cheese, here’s 21 things you need to know before you go.

CoverMore_Lisa_Owen_Georgia_Monastery view Lisa

1. You will probably gain a couple of kilos

Beware of Georgian grandmothers – they love to feed you. Georgian meals are a feast set for a king filled with bread, cheese, soup, vegetables, dumplings and more cheese. Everything is so wonderfully delicious that you will be eating until you are fit to burst.

Servings are very generous, calorie loaded (and filling) in Georgia so beware at a restaurant – or you may find yourself with a lot of food leftover – and you’ll be rolling home.

Must try Georgian cuisine includes cheese filled khachapuri, khinkali (Georgian dumplings) and eggplants with walnuts.

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2. It takes a long time to get anywhere

You’re on Georgian time now. The cheapest mode of transport for budget travellers are mini buses all the ex-Soviet countries call marshrutkas. You can get almost anywhere in the country via these marshrutkas. From Tbilisi, marshrutkas service all major tourist destinations across Georgia including Kazbegi, Gori, Batumi, Borjomi, Kutaisi, Mestia and Signaghi.

The Didube bus station services most locations throughout Georgia, such as Kazbegi, Batumi, Kutaisi, Mestia and Borjomi. Head to the Isani metro station to get marshrutkas to locations in the east of the country such as Telavi, Signaghi and Lagodekhi.

Marshrutkas run on a loose schedule but usually only leave when they’re full – which means you can be waiting from anywhere between 10 minutes to 30 minutes on average for your ride to leave.

The marshrutkas make stops along the way to drop off people (and pick any up if there’s any room) and usually make rest stops every 2-3 hours. Breaks will range from a 10 minute toilet break to a 30 minute lunch break depending on the length of the journey.

3. Your car/bus/train has a good chance of breaking down

I don’t know if I’ve just been unlucky, but while travelling through Georgia, several marshrutka rides I’ve taken have broken down.

I also experienced a train breakdown and the radiator overheated in a shared taxi.

It was all part of the adventure of travelling in Georgia and it was always entertaining seeing how they fixed the problem before resuming the journey.

The good things is Georgians are resourceful – so you won’t be stuck for long before a solution is found, where the problem is fixed or another marshrutka is arranged.

Expect something to go wrong – and if it doesn’t, count it as your lucky day.

4. Ladies – expect some proposals

If you’re a female tourist, don’t be surprised if you get marriage proposals. I got two on a train ride and another two on marshrutka rides.

They were harmless enough but undoubtedly it will happen to you too.

5. You’ll need some cash

Georgia’s currency is called the lari (also abbreviated to GEL).

In places like Tbilisi and Kutaisi, you’ll be mostly fine to pay with card at accommodation and supermarkets, but have some cash handy to buy food at markets, use shared taxis and get on marshrutkas.

The Bolt app works great for taxis around cities and you pay through the app or cash to the driver.

If you’re going into the mountain areas and staying in guesthouses, you’ll also need to make sure you have enough cash for your time on the trails. You’ll pay for accommodation at guesthouses in cash, as well as for any meals. Budget for around 70-90 GEL per night per person at each guesthouse for meals and accommodation.

Many restaurants in Kazbegi and Mestia will also only accept cash.

You can easily change US Dollars and Euros in Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi – but there’s also lots of ATMs in these places that accept foreign cards. There’s also 1 or 2 ATMs in Mestia and Kazbegi.

CoverMore_Lisa_Owen_Georgia_Vardzia Cave profile

6. Don’t be surprised if there’s only squat toilets

Restrooms inside bus stations, gas stations and local restaurants are likely to have only squat toilets.

There’s a good chance there will be no toilet paper in the stall either, so be prepared with your own or have some tissues handy. Hand sanitiser is also an essential item.

You might also have to pay to use toilets (such as inside bus stations) but it’s usually no more than 1 GEL.

7. The locals are very friendly and generous

You’ll feel very welcome in Georgia. People often asked if I needed help, gave up their seats on the metro when I had a heavy bag, and enthusiastically provided me with suggestions on places to visit (even if they had to communicate via Google Translate).

You’ll find many young people (under around the 40-year-old mark) speak at least a little English.

8. You’ll meet lots of like-minded travellers

With tourism rapidly developing in Georgia, you’ll likely meet many backpackers from around the world. Many of them will be well travelled and travelling long term in my experience, and mostly from Europe.

Solo travellers will find it very easy to meet other travellers on the marshrutkas, trains or in hostels – and you might even end up travelling with them for a few days or even weeks as you make your way across Georgia.

9. Many announcements and signs are in English

Georgia has its own alphabet and it’s baffling for foreigners to comprehend. The good news is that the majority of signs and announcements are also in English.

Metro stops are announced in English, and Latin letters are used on all metro boards. You’ll also find English alternating with Georgian on electronic signage at bus stop stands.

Many service staff in restaurants in the main tourist towns will also also speak a little English.

You’ll also find English speaking staff at tourist information offices across Georgia.

If in doubt, use Google Translate.

CoverMore_Lisa_Owen_Georgia_Snow Water View

10. Local dogs will follow you on hikes

Heading off on a hike? Be prepared to have a furry friend eagerly leading the way. The local dogs love hiking, and you’ll just be casually walking along and then find you’ve gained a canine friend.

The local dogs may just like to explore on occasion so don’t use them as your navigation – they may just have found a good smell.

Also be wary if you have any dogs with you around sheep. The huge dogs owned by the shepherds can get aggressive around the local dogs so take care. It’s best to hike in a group.

11. The Maps.me app will come in handy

The Maps.me app was an extremely helpful addition on the trails. All the trails I went on in Mestia and Kazbegi were marked in the app to help guide the way – although most of the trails are pretty well marked either by signs or the footpad is well worn.

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12. Knowing a few words in Georgian will go a long way

You’re unlikely to know Georgian before you visit but try to learn a couple of words in Georgian such as hello (gamarjoba) and thank you (madloba).

13. You can get around Tbilisi using the metro or buses

The Tbilisi metro makes it very easy to get around the city. There’s only two lines which makes it very simple to navigate however it does mean it’s always busy, no matter the time of day.

The metro runs very frequently, I’ve never waited more than two minutes for a train to show up. The most common stops you will use is Liberty Square (in the centre closest to the Old Town), Station Square (for the long distance trains) and Didube (main marshrutka and shared taxi station for most routes). You may also use Isani station as this is where to get marshrutkas to Signaghi, Telavi and Lagodekhi.

To use the metro or buses in Tbilisi, you can buy a reloadable card for 2 GEL ($0.80 USD) and load some money on. You can do this easily at the counters at the entrance to the metro stations. The staff probably won’t speak English but they get the idea of what you want pretty quickly. Each trip on the metro costs only 1 GEL ($0.35 USD) no matter the distance. You reload money onto the card at the same counters you bought it from. Just pass over the card and money you want to load on to the cashier and it will be done quickly.

You can also tap your bank card when getting on the metro or a bus.

14. Be prepared for all kinds of weather

Rain, hail, snow, hectic winds – and that was just the first two hours on one hike I did at the beginning of summer! Prepare for all weather conditions when you’re hiking in the Georgian mountains as you never know what you’ll get. It’s high altitude in many of these mountains so the weather can change quickly. Always bring warm and wet weather clothing, dry bags for your valuables and a raincover for your backpack.

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15. There will still be snow on the mountains in summer

You might think all the snow would have melted by the time summer rolls around – but you’d be wrong. You may still find some mountainous areas hard going with snow still on the ground, especially if you’re heading out hiking before the end of June. Outdoor lovers are best to head to Georgia in July and August when it’s more likely snow has melted.

Ask at the tourist information offices in Kazbegi and Mestia for up to date trail conditions.

16. You’ll probably eat your weight in fruit

Fruit such as strawberries, cherries and apricots grow super well in Georgia during the summer months and you’ll find punnets of these glorious treats for only a few lari. I love cherries but after eating them every day for 3 weeks in Georgia, I couldn’t look at a single cherry for months.

17. Be wary about taking night trains

The night trains are an interesting experience in Georgia – and they seem like a good idea in theory (a bed and transport at an affordable price). The bad news is that there’s no air-conditioning and you can’t open the windows on the trains – making for stifling conditions in the warmer months.

Lying on the bunks I felt like I was in a washing machine as the train sways from side to side. Breakdowns are also possible, and you might have a rowdy group full of Georgians high on the local spirit cha cha or deep sleeping snorers to contend with.

Alternatively you can take the local marshrutkas (mini buses) to destinations across Georgia during the day.

CoverMore_Lisa_Owen_Georgia_Platform Mountain View

18. Take it easy on the cha cha

Cha cha is the alcoholic spirit of choice in Georgia but beware it’s very strong. Two shots of this stuff and I was pretty much on the floor. You’ve been warned.

19. You can go wine tasting in the supermarket

One of the aspects I loved about Georgia is that you could go wine tasting in the supermarket. If you wander anywhere near the wine aisle, you’d likely be greeted with shop assistants enthusiastically offering you a taste test.

If you don’t have a taste, the ladies seem quite offended. So drink away! You’ll also find shops dotted around Tbilisi where you can buy wine by the litre starting from 5 GEL ($2 USD).

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20. Don’t forget to try the local spring water

You can’t go to Georgia without trying the local Borjomi spring water. The unique salty water (it’s an acquired taste I’m sure) can be bought carbonated from the supermarket or you can drink it straight from the spring in Borjomi. Be prepared for a salty, sulphuric taste – but hey when in Georgia.

21. There’s an art form to eating khinkali

You don’t eat Georgian dumplings (khinkali) with cutlery. The way you eat them is by sprinkling them with pepper, picking them up by the stem, taking a bite, sipping the juices, and then eating the rest but leaving the stem. Georgians will enthusiastically show you how it’s done – and they seem offended if you don’t do it their way!

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